Hugo's - Houston

Hugo's
1600 Westheimer
Houston, TX 77006
(713) 524-7744
www.hugosrestaurant.net

A few months in the making, our first monthly dinner club excursion commenced last Wednesday. A conglomeration of people connected through Kat, our apartment finder, the group of five couples didn't lack for conversation. But that's no surprise since food always has a way of bringing people together.

Hugo's is located in the Montrose area off Westheimer in a beautiful 1925 building designed by Joseph Finger, a well-known Houston architect. Executive chef Hugo Ortega and restauranteur Tracy Vaught serve regional Mexican cuisine with unexpected and adventurous items on its menu, among those being the grasshoppers (Chapulines, bottom photo) we sampled. Pan sauteed and presented with blue corn tortillas, guacamole and salsa, Hugo's cooks carefully disguise this protein to taste somewhat meaty, crunchy and extremely flavorful. However edible and seasoned well, I don't recommend a discussion of the grasshoppers' texture while consuming. Some other "Entremeses" deserve attention as well. On a previous trip to Hugo's, Cam and I partook of the Carnitas de Pato (duck tacos), Queso Flameado (steak) and Lechon (tender suckling pig). All three received praise, but the Carnitas de Pato were probably the favorite that evening.

Moving on I must share the divine entrees we ordered the night of our dinner club outing. I opted for the Carnitas (top photo) while Cam chose the Barbacoa. The Carnitas was tender, slow-cooked pork served with salsa Mexicana, cilantro and onions. The Barbacoa was lamb marinated in chiles, onion, garlic and avocado leaves, then slow-roasted in agave skin and served with chopped onion, fresh cilantro and warm tortillas. Both dishes melted in our mouths!

Fortunately, our taste-testing didn't stop with just our selections. Our newfound friends shared bites of their dishes as well. I love food sharers! Kat ordered the Halibut special, which was extremely fresh and light. Brittney had the Cochinita Pibil, which was slow-roasted baby pig cooked in banana leaf, Yucatán-style with pickled onions, arroz negro and habanero salsa. Hugo's menu delivers several more interesting meat choices, including goat meat and rabbit. Hugo's isn't Tex-Mex, people; it's Mexican fare at its finest!

One final note: Not only does the cuisine at Hugo's impress, but so does the drink menu. Sangria, margaritas, and extensive wine list barely scratches the surface.

Service: excellent
Price: $$-$$$

Atmosphere: great for groups, upscale yet comfortable